Choli question - gapping

topic posted Fri, July 3, 2009 - 7:18 PM by  Zina
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Hi all, I hope someone knows what I'm talking about here...

I made a sample choli using the Folkwear Tribal Style Belly Dancer pattern. The instructions recommend a cotton fabric so that's what I used, using the size M.

It came together pretty well...BTW, I now LOVE gussets! Anyway, when installed on my bod, the top pulls at the shoulders (looks unattractive in the shoulder front area, and gaps in the back toward the band. I figured out the shoulder things kind of corrects itself if I loosen the shoulder ribbon...

But the back... what's the deal with the gapping? Did I use a size too small? I am an A cup so had to use the B size as there is no B but thought the small would be too small around.

This was my mock up, using an old sheet. I'd like to know how to get it right before using a pretty fabric. Is this why people use a stretch fabric? That scares me cause I still haven't figures out the trick to using it.

Oh yes, are the sleeves always kinda loose around the arms?

Thank you so much.

z
posted by:
Zina
Kansas
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  • Re: Choli question - gapping

    Fri, July 3, 2009 - 7:26 PM
    Okay, grab a friend and a box of pins. Put on your choli - congrats on making the mock up, this is why you do it. Now have your friend pin the gaps so that they fit (kind of like taking little pleats in the edges). Don't loosen ties so far that the choli doesn't stay in place. Take note of places where you may need a bit more room, pin out the places that are too big.

    Now take your choli off. Make those places where you've pinned out the excess permanent by sewing them closed with a long running stitch. Now take the choli apart on the seam lines. Use these pieces as your pattern for the "real" choli. Compare them with the original pattern pieces and for future use, make a new pattern with these alterations.

    Now you have a custom fit pattern. If you don't like the loose sleeves, make them a little smaller, but remember, woven fabric doesn't stretch, so don't make them as snug as you would make them if the fabric was a knit and a little more stretchy
    • Re: Choli question - gapping

      Sat, July 4, 2009 - 7:25 AM
      Thanks Xanathea. I have a friend! :)
      • Re: Choli question - gapping

        Sat, July 4, 2009 - 12:59 PM
        Post pictures when this is done!! I have the pattern but haven't done the choli. Used the instructions to make the "flying skirt". I made it out of black rayon (from Dharma Trading) and used up a bunch of quilting fat quarters for the band at the bottom. It is heavy, but I love the skirt.
    • Re: Choli question - gapping

      Sat, July 4, 2009 - 2:40 PM
      Yes to all the above plus: make sure you have stay-stitched the fabric edges if you did not finish them, or part of your gapping problem could be fabric stretching, yes even on the grain.
  • Re: Choli question - gapping

    Sat, July 4, 2009 - 7:39 PM
    I took the Choli to my Mom's house today as she is an excellent seamstress. When I tried it on she was pinning and tucking and said she thought it was too big all over, even the shoulders. Yea! I might be a small!!!! :)
    • Re: Choli question - gapping

      Sun, July 5, 2009 - 12:16 AM
      Yay!!!! Glad that you got it to work. Aren't mom's great?
      • Re: Choli question - gapping

        Mon, July 6, 2009 - 12:35 PM
        I'll just add that while I've made a good many cholis very happily from my FCBD choli pattern (the old, un-sized version, too!), the final pattern I use, that fits me, is quite a bit different from the original. But now that I have it, I'm a happy, happy camper :)

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